Monday, January 20, 2014

Lapa (but not my info)

The Cosmopolita, one of Lapa's relics from 1906, was serving drinks behind its stained-glass saloon doors. At the Café dos Arcos, a poetry salon was in full swing.
The entire, sizzling nocturnal scene seemed chimerical when I returned to Lapa one sunny weekday afternoon. A bright yellow tramway (no longer in service) trundled its way over the aqueduct, on its way to the hilltop neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. The streets, which nights ago had been filled with fashionistas and late-night revellers, were quiet and reminiscent of a traditional town in the interior.

I stopped at the rustic Adega Flor de Coimbra for a glass of cool red wine (Brazilians like all drinks refrigerated) and bolinhos de bacalhau (cod balls). Opened in 1938, this Portuguese bistro was once a popular haunt where intellectuals, artists and later students and leftists sat around drinking red wine by the glass.

At this same corner sprawls another Lapa landmark, although of a more recent vintage. The "convent stairway" is composed of 215 steps covered with a dazzling mosaic of broken ceramic tiles that lead up to the convent of Santa Teresa.
Selaron, a Chilean artist, began the staircase as a gift to his favourite city. Initially, he purchased antique tiles in Brazil's national hues of green, yellow and blue, but soon people began sending him tiles of all colours from all over the world (including Canada). The result is worthy of Antonio Gaudi.

Wandering beneath the arches and following Avenida Mem de Sa, I passed some beautiful, if slightly worn, buildings. At the century-old Bar Brasil, draft beer is served from an ornate, 90-year-old bronze tower. Lazy ceiling fans and polished wooden freezers contribute to the old world atmosphere.

Friday, January 17, 2014

Os Gêmeos

OS GÊMEOS are twin Brazilian graffiti artists,  known world wide.

These two images were painted very close to my house by the Lagoa, right under the overpass leading to the Tunnel Rebouças. I was told that the fainter one was being erased by some public person but was stopped by passers-by. I do not know whether this is so.




The following photos were downloaded from the internet. There you can find out a lot more about these amazingly fun artists.


A trip to the Northeast

Not quite like the US Northeast, in Brazil the land is hot and dry in parts, and has beautiful beaches in others. The dunes, as are the beaches, are known worldwide. The area is popular with tourists from all over the world for its attractions (you can even go for a camel ride on the beach), its food and its culture.


Here in Rio you can have just a little impression of the last two in the FEIRA PARAIBA, or Feira São Cristovão, in Sáo Cristovão. The place is open Tue thru Th from 10 to 4pm and from Friday 10am to Sunday 10pm. There is food, music, dancing, shows and typical objects. In the evenings it is crowded and hot, I recently went on a Friday afternoon around 4pm and it was very pleasant, not all restaurants were open, of course, but a group was playing forro (typical and very enticing dance) and some of the locals were dancing and swaying to the music.

Can you imagine having lunch with 3 of your best friends for all of  $25?


Sweets galore